Few places capture the imagination quite like Florence, a city steeped in history, art and historic charm. For Georgette Jupe, the woman behind Girl in Florence, what began as a study-abroad adventure turned into a lifelong love affair with Tuscany’s capital. Now she has sat down with us to share about her journey from Texas to Tuscany, what makes Florence such a special place to call home and—as a special feature—her favorite hidden gems for travelers looking to experience the city like a local.
We’ve enjoyed following you as Girl In Florence on Instagram for many years. What first brought you to Florence? When did you know you wanted to stay?
I first came to Florence when I was almost 21, originally as a study abroad student on a plane with 30 other people who had mapped out what they thought Italy would be like. At the time, I had my heart set on living in London, but I ended up in Italy by chance, a happy accident. I thought my time here would be short and sweet – an exciting detour before returning home. Little did I know, I would end up calling Florence home for over 15 years with a three year stint in Switzerland. In a way, coming here without any expectations is what allowed me to fall in love with the country in the first place.
So many aspects of life in Italy were different from what I knew growing up in the suburbs of San Antonio, Texas – the walking culture, the architecture, the access to other European cities and, of course, the simple, delicious local cuisine that had me breaking out from my student diet of sandwiches and salads. I had also just returned from a two-month stint teaching English in China, and 2005 turned out to be an incredibly pivotal year for me. It felt like the world was opening up, and with it, the possibilities of what my life could be.
Though I was born and raised in Texas, I always felt like my true home was somewhere else, though I wasn’t sure where. Italy, with its unique mix of chaos and comfort, both challenged and captivated me. After finishing my degree in Los Angeles, I decided to return to Florence, but it wasn’t an easy decision. Life as a student here was one thing; living and working as an adult in a foreign country was a whole different reality.
I had to find odd jobs that paid very little, navigate the complicated process of securing a work visa, and, most importantly, learn Italian. There were plenty of moments when I thought about packing it all in and heading back to the USA. But in the end, I’m grateful I stayed. All of the challenges I faced—difficult as they were—helped me grow into a more resilient person, someone who now tackles challenges head-on without hesitation.
What are the aspects of Florence life that you enjoy most? What makes the local community so special?
Over the years, my life in Florence has taken many different shapes, from when I first arrived at 21 to now, at 40. But one constant that has never changed is my love for the size of the city. Florence is small enough to explore on foot or by bike without getting too annoyed by the frequent transport strikes, and I’ve always felt that just walking through the center is an experience in itself. There’s always something happening – festivals, exhibitions, new restaurants and bars and though it can be very busy at times there are always hidden detours through crowds. It never gets boring.
Because the city is so compact, you constantly run into people you know, which makes me feel more connected to the community and up-to-date as to what people are up to. After 15 years, I’ve built up a real sense of familiarity here. Whether it’s at a local market or just walking down the street, I always bump into friendly faces, and that sense of belonging adds so much to my experience of the city.
For travelers staying longer in Florence, or returning for a deeper visit, what are the experiences they should seek out?
For a richer experience in Florence beyond the typical tourist attractions, consider exploring things and engaging in activities based on hobbies or curiosities you already have instead of visiting something just because you think you should or for a photo op. Into art but craving something a little less crowded? Begin with a visit to the Stibbert Museum, a lesser-known treasure showcasing an extensive collection of armor and art before stopping by the Horne Museum close to the Arno river. The Horne Museum, another secret Florentine gem. Herbert Percy Horne was a late-Victorian Englishman who came to Florence to study the Renaissance and filled his house with the sort of art that would have been seen in a home of the period. Here you’ll find work by key artists such as Giotto, Filippo Lippi and Giambologna, as well as furniture and domestic objects from the period.
Consider making a Google map of small shops, authentic boutiques and artisans and make that an entire afternoon activity after lunch. For an authentic culinary experience, make it a point to visit local markets such as Sant’Ambrogio or the weekend farmer’s market in Cascine Park. Avoid the crowded eateries near major sights and instead visit a family-run trattoria a little further out fro the center. So much of the beauty of Florence is just enjoying it on a slower, daily basis without feeling like you need to rush everything, even after 15 years I continue to be inspired.
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Do you have any favorite spots that really capture Florence?
Happy to share some of my personal favorites!
Museums:
Stibbert Museum
The Stibbert Museum, founded by Frederick Stibbert in the 1800s, showcases his extraordinary collection of weaponry, artwork and everyday objects from European, Islamic and East Asian cultures, with a notable focus on Japan. This house museum offers a unique glimpse into the diverse civilizations that influenced Stibbert’s eclectic collection, making it one of Florence’s most interesting stops (in my personal opinion).
Innocenti Museum
Founded in Florence during the first half of the 15th century, the Istituto degli Innocenti was the first institution in the world devoted exclusively to childcare. The museum’s journey begins in the basement, showcasing the history of the institution through interactive displays about the children and nannies who lived there. On the ground floor, visitors explore Brunelleschi’s Renaissance architecture, including the Loggia degli Innocenti and the Men and Women Courtyards, highlighting the unique iron window used to receive children. The top floor features an impressive art collection, with works by Botticelli, Ghirlandaio and other Renaissance masters.
Museo Horne
Located in a historic 15th-century building in Florence, the Horne Museum houses the collection of art historian and collector Herbert Percy Horne. Filled with objects dating from the 14th to 16th centuries, the museum offers a glimpse into Renaissance domestic life through paintings, sculptures, ceramics and furniture carefully arranged as Horne instructed after his death. Highlights include masterpieces like Giotto’s St. Stephen, Simone Martini’s Madonna and Child and works by Filippo Lippi, Beccafumi and Pietro Lorenzetti.
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Shops:
Scuola del Cuoio
Founded by leather artisan Marcello Gori after World War II to help those orphaned in the second world war, the Scuola del Cuoio in the Santa Croce Monastery trains artisans in the traditional craft of leatherworking. Today, it functions both as a shop selling high-quality handmade leather goods and as a school where visitors can learn the art of Tuscan leathercraft
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
Founded in 1612 by Dominican monks, the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is one of the oldest and most famous pharmacies in the world, originally known for its medicinal rose water and herbs grown onsite. Today, it serves as both a charming boutique offering historic perfumes and skincare, and a museum showcasing ancient apothecary jars, frescoes and centuries-old recipes.
Clet Abraham Studio
A small art studio where local artist Clet Abraham creates playful, street-inspired artworks and street signs. It’s a great spot to pick up unique, locally made souvenirs.
Mio Concept Store
Mio Concept Store is a boutique close to Santa Maria Novella and specializes in artisan-made goods including bespoke jewelry, art, souvenirs and journals. It’s the perfect place to support local artists in Florence.
Uashmama
Uashmama in Florence is a unique shop known for its sustainable, washable paper products, including bags, accessories and home decor all made in Tuscany. Emphasizing eco-friendliness and innovation, the brand combines traditional Italian craftsmanship with a modern, environmentally conscious ethos, offering stylish, durable items made from a distinctive, washable material. I basically love everything in this shop including their new sling bags, wallets, pot holders and more.
Female Arts in Florence
Female Arts in Florence is a contemporary art gallery is a vibrant, women-run workshop in Florence that specializes in creating high-quality, handmade products by local artists. Focused on sustainability and craftsmanship, the shop offers a range of stylish, bespoke products made from locally sourced materials and designed with a modern, eco-conscious approach.
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Restaurants & Cafés:
Trattoria Sabatino
Trattoria Sabatino is a cozy, family-run eatery in Florence known for its authentic Tuscan cuisine and traditional dishes that change on the daily thanks to an old-school typewritten menu. It’s no frills, cheap and they don’t take reservations, but that only adds to the charm.
Osteria dell’Enoteca
Osteria dell’Enoteco is charming spot in the Oltrarno district that has won the praise of the hard-to-please Slow Food Osterie Guide. In addition to hand-selected wines, they offer delicious, locally sourced Tuscan cuisine with bistecca alla fiorentina (Florentine t-bone steak) being the star of the show. If you go, order the peposo-filled ravioli to start and thank me later.
Discovering the joys of family life in Florence.
After living away in Switzerland for awhile, what was the best part of returning to Florence?
Returning to Florence felt almost euphoric, like slipping into your favorite sweater after a long day. My biggest struggle in Switzerland was the constant pause while I fumbled through my German, but that awkward silence vanished the second we landed back here. Everything in Florence feels like home – from the bustling markets and cozy restaurants to the parks. In Switzerland, eating out was a rare luxury thanks to the sky-high prices, but here? I’m constantly amazed at the incredible food we can enjoy for a fraction of the cost. Let’s just say, both my heart and my stomach are very happy to be home.
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A big thank you to Georgette for sharing her story and local tips with us! To dive deeper into her adventures and discover even more about Florence, visit her website at www.girlinflorence.com, sign up for her Honest Conversations with Georgette on Substack and follow her on Instagram @girlinflorence.
Curious about spending more time in Florence? Explore our Florence vacation rentals for your next stay and discover how you can make this beautiful city a part of your life with our fractional co-ownership opportunities from Italy Perfect Shared.
